Hi, There is a guy down the road from me selling a “Roto-Hoe” tiller. I never heard of this brand but after a little research I found they were made by a company in Ohio that is now out of business. I’m no expert, but this thing looks to be built like a tank. Much more heavy duty than some of the newer tillers you see today @ home depot or lowes. It appears to be 20-25 years old. It has an 8HP Tecumsuh engine on it. It looks like about an 18” tilling width.

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Jul 9, 2012 - Hi there, Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this. Roto-Hoe Tiller Model SP manual - RTO Garden question.

He only wants $100 or best offer. I talked to him on the phone and he says it runs fine, but when he starts to till he says it slows down or slips. I’m no mechanic, but sounds like a belt or something slipping.

Does this sound fixable? I also found that there are sources for parts/manuals online for these machines as well. Since I could probably get it for less than $100 it doesn’t sound too risky, even if I have to put a little money into it. I would appreciate any opinions and/or input, thanks. I own one - purchased new around 1982 and Yes it is built like a tank and Yes it will bust through anything as long as you are strong enough to control it! The best thing about them is that they are built heavy and built of common parts - on the rare occasion that a repair is needed a trip to the hardware store or auto parts store will easily locate the pieces needed.

The engine is an 8HP Tecumseh and when it fails they are as easy to find as fleas on a deer! The belt drive system is simple and easy to maintain but you will want to have spare belts on hand at all times - they do wear a bit faster than you might expect, especially the one running from the jack shaft down to the transmission, I think that is due the the dirt it is exposed to. If the engine runs and the transmission operates in all gears then it is certainly worth $100 to buy. I have discovered that when breaking heavy or hard packed soil that the best method is to remove the rear tine shield and drag spike completely (if they are still there) and to break ground in Reverse! This will cause the tiller to tend to dig in instead of try to run over the top of the packed soil and it also does a fantastic job of pulling rocks up to the surface making them easy to remove from your garden plot. Alot of people hack on roto hoe.

In fact they are pretty well built not tomuch to go wrong with them altough the are known for going through drive belts and a chain every now and agin. I have a couple of machines ( chipper/shredder,ect.) and they are built like tanks the only falt that I have realy found is that they where purpose commercialy built so not alot of guarding around drive belts,fly wheels! Kinda dangerouse if you have little ones around!!

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The only other thing is they are built so tuff that if u hit somthing big and hard tiller wont bouce over it like a troy built it will either eat what you hit or destroy the tines. My chipper/shrdder only has a five horse on it and Iv stuck a three inch branch in it and it didnt even blink! I have a roto-hoe tiller. My Uncle bought it from a garage sale, but hardly anyone could/would run it. It sat outside my parents garage with a tub over it. Every 3-5 years when I would make it home we would get it running, and use it.

It is a tank, and I have had it come completely off the ground, and out of my hands several times if it hits a rock, or root. But I liked it so much I bought it from my uncle, it sets sometimes for a year or two, and then I use it again, but will put it up against any newer tiller Lowes, or Depot sells. This thing is durable, and reliable, though it does need a carb rebuild, but after about 12 years of mostly setting, that's fair.

I thought the chipper was a seperate unit that wouldn't bolt on to it? That is a nice unit Tooler. I have a roto hoe with rear tiller and front single stage blower attachments. Granted-I don't use it since I have my JD 30 Hydro tiller but I would like to get the engine working better. Mine has a newer 5 HP briggs that needs work. It runs-but not well.

Also don't need to use the blower since I have a JD 47 blower. Kind of a cool item though. There was another thing similar that had a tiller, mower, real mower and single stage blower that you lifted the engine/handle off (I think it was a power handle?). I stand corrected, the chipper was a separate unit not an attachment. I bought the tiller from a neighbor for the engine only because the shaft was worn out on one side. It was in a bushel basket when i got it.

Needle bearings all fell out etc. Got looking at it and looked like too nice of a setup to throw everything but the engine away.

So I had a machine shop fix the shaft and put new bearings in and put her back together. Sold after a day to the first guy that looked at it.

I have a 42' hydraulic tiller to fit my newer 300 series tractors. Currently have it on my 335 but recently bought a 18 hp 325 and thinking about putting it on that one to keep hours off of my 335. Don't really need a walk behind though I just picked up a Troy bilt horse and got that running like a. ape over the weekend.

I need to sell some stuff so I can find another project.